[18]
TOPWATER LURES
If exciting fishing is what you are after then
topwater lures are for you. Sadly they do not
work everywhere. My local canal should be an excellent
surface fishing water, it's shallow, with quite
a bit of weed of various types, water clarity
is good and there are plenty of pike. But despite
considerable effort with a number of topwaters
in various sizes no pike have come my way off
the surface. I have worked over a patch of subsurface
lilies with a Jitterbug for at least ten minutes
with no response from the pike that I was sure
were present. My initial reaction had been to
put on a minnow bait, but I resisted the temptation
in order to see if I could get a pike up on the
surface lure. Switching from the topwaters, and
first cast twitching a Bang-O minnow very slowly
just over the leaves, so it was dipping into the
clear spots, resulted in a take!
Just
as surface lures don't work everywhere, neither
do they work all year round, so you have to
make the most of it when the pike are on them
in a big way. It doesn't matter to me how small
the pike are that are hitting, or trying to
hit, my topwaters. The thrill is just the same.
The biggest problem with discovering that surface
baits can catch plenty of pike is that you start
using them when you know you should be using
something else. If anything, they can be even
more addictive to use than jerkbaits. I have
Dave Scarff to thank for turning me on to topwater
piking. As an experienced bass angler (largemouths
in Africa) Dave had used a lot of surface lures
for them, and naturally used them for pike un-hindered
by the U.K. angler's usual aversion to topwaters.
The
main categories of topwater lures are poppers
or chuggers, stickbaits, crawlers, buzzers,
and propbaits. There are some that could fall
into a couple of groups, too. A few poppers
have propellers, and some can be crawled across
the surface. Some crawlers have propellers too.
These 'noisy' baits could all simply be put
down as surface commotion baits, which is a
phrase that also covers stickbaits that have
a spinner blade at the back end, and other combination
lures like Mouldy's Hawg Wobbler.
Buzzers
are the odd one out amongst surface lures as,
in the main, all the other types float at rest.
Looking a little like a spinnerbait they have
a wire frame with a single hook and a lead head,
the blade being either aluminium or plastic
with two to four wings. There are dual arm versions
of these lures and also in-line ones, but as
you can imagine all these baits have to be retrieved
fairly rapidly to keep them on top where they
sputter and gurgle their way across the surface.
Thumbing the reel before the lure hits the water
and starting the retrieve as soon as it splashes
down is the best tactic, especially where you
are fishing over thick weed. You might find
that some buzzers require the rod to be pointed
slightly upwards to keep them on the surface
if a sensible retrieve speed is to be maintained.
The design of the lead head is such that it
helps plane the bait to the surface and the
upward facing single hook is intended to be
weedless. Double bladed buzzers, which usually
have contra-rotating blades, have more lift
than single bladed models, and as a result can
be worked more slowly. They also make twice
as much noise.
In
very weedy water buzzers can be the only lure
that can be presented with anything approaching
confidence of remaining weed-free. As with spinnerbaits
these lures were originally designed for bass
fishing, a very surface oriented fish, but have
been expanded into pike and musky fishing with
the introduction of correspondingly larger baits.
I have to confess to no experience whatsoever
of catching pike on buzzers, although I know
anglers who catch loads on them.
Propbaits are essentially plugs with spinning
blades at one or both ends. Some, mostly musky
lures like the Poe's Awaker and Hi-Fin Teasertail,
have a tail section (or even two) that spins.
These latter baits are often referred to as
tail-spins (which is a little confusing as there
is another type of jigging lure that is also
called a tail-spin), or sometimes bodied buzzers.
All create much the same commotion as buzzers,
but have the advantages that they offer a bulky
profile to the pike, and they can be twitched
or left static on the surface. Propbaits can
either be cranked straight back to you, or fished
in fits and starts. Use your imagination and
experiment. As I tend to have a few casts with
one of these baits, and then switch to a surface
lure that I have more confidence in, I am not
surprised that my success rate is low. However,
I intend to spend more time with them in future
because I know they will work, and in conditions
that don't favour other surface baits, stickbaits
in particular. It's only a matter of time before
I get the hang of propbaits and so on.
I
have a feeling that the continual casting and
steady retrieving of a large propbait over a
pike that is lying up can annoy it so much that
it strikes at the lure. In swims where there
is pike-holding weed coming to within inches
the surface, maybe reaching the top in places,
a big noisy lure like an Awaker might just do
the trick. These baits are good for covering
a lot of water quickly too, and I like to work
over a section of water with a surface bait
to stir the pike up, and then put a slower sub-surface
lure through the same water. This method really
does score. Perhaps that's what happened on
the canal with the Jitterbug/Bang-O combination.
You don't always get follows or takes on the
topwaters, but their action definitely stirs
the pike up and they hit the diving lures. Gliding
jerkbaits that run about two feet down and minnows
have done best for me in these instances. There
is no doubting that the usefulness of surface
lures as 'wake-up' baits should not be underestimated.
Maybe the surface commotion draws the pike up
in the water. It certainly seems to make them
more aggressive.
Poe's Awaker. Blue Fox Double Buzzer with
added trailer grub and stinger hook. Poe's
Giant Jackpot. Fish Eagle Top Doctor. Hi-Fin
Creeper. Arbogast Musky Jitterbug. D.L. Dicer.
When
steadily retrieving an Awaker you might get
fish following it back, tailing it closely,
or if the lure is moving quite quickly striking
just behind it. This is, I am sure, due to the
fact that they are attacking it from the side
- and it has moved away from them. Nige Grassby
told me of watching pike weaving from side to
side behind an Awaker, which I interpret as
a preparatory stage to coming alongside and
hitting it. Nige has also had fish come out
of the water and take surface lures on the way
back down. Weird!
Why
I can catch pike on a popper twitched to kick
up a fuss, but not on propbaits is a mystery.
I have witnessed a pike come up and sit below
a slaptail fished like this for Dave Scarff,
so I know they do draw the attention of pike.
I then caught it on a jerkbait, which illustrates
the point I made earlier. Funnily enough the
popper I can catch on is one I designed myself.
It resembles the Bomber Popper, but is about
twice the length and has a lip. As a result
it can also be used as a crawler, which is just
as well because it is also one of the few I
can catch on creeping over the surface! Now
I am well aware of the efficacy of crawlers
like the Arbogast Jitterbug, Heddon Crazy Crawler
and the similar, but larger, Hi-Fin Creeper.
One thing that all these commercial lures have
in common is that they tend to throw up an amount
of spray, bubbles and commotion as they waddle
across the water. My lure doesn't. Dave made
me a couple of these lures, which I christened
the Dicer.
All
crawlers seem to have a critical speed. Too
fast and they flip, too slow and they don't
wiggle or crawl. Creepers with the folding arms
like the Hi-Fin can be scurried in bursts, or
just crawled steadily along. The Magnum Jitterbug
can be fished rapidly, scuttering it across
the surface, when it makes a commotion similar
to that of a tail-spin but with a wagging body.
Having the surface disturbance at the head of
the lure might make for more accurate strikes
from pike on such a rapid retrieve. If you try
to scurry a Jitterbug it has a tendency to leap
out of the water, planing up on its large wobbling-plate.
When any crawler is worked steadily, at tick-over
speed, it provides a target that is easy for
the pike to home in on and so they tend to be
more accurate when having a go at these lures
than other faster or erratically working lures,
buzzers or stickbaits for example. The advantage
that my Dicer has over a straight chugger or
popper is that the two retrieves can be combined
in one. A true popper will not run very well,
and so has to be cast to the precise spot you
expect a pike to be lying in, and popped there
to make the fish strike. A crawler can be twitched
to some extent, but not as effectively as a
true popper. I find that popping works best
over the top of weeds, and next to fish holding
cover like overhanging grass and so forth. The
usual advice for fishing lures in this manner
is to cast out and allow the ripples to die
away before popping the bait. I tend not to
wait quite that long, sometimes the lure gets
twitched as soon as it hits the water. Pike
still slam it. The first time I did this I thought
I had overdone the popping as the water erupted.
Only when the rod bent round and the line cut
through the water did I realise a pike had taken
the lure!
The
ultra slow chugging approach takes a great deal
of patience, long pauses between pops are hard
to endure, but they do work. After the initial
gurgling chug wait a while, as long as you can
stand, and then try it again. The first pop
alerts the pike to the lure's presence, subsequent
pops draw it in and, with a bit of luck, provoke
the strike. This sort of dead-slow fishing is
completely different to the usual view of lure
fishing. It requires complete concentration
and I find it very tiring to carry out for long
periods. Select the spots carefully and work
them over for just a few casts in order to maintain
concentration. This really is a thinking way
of catching pike on artificials. Popping close
to far bank reed beds is when the Dicer comes
in useful, because popping is most likely to
work close to cover. The Dicer can then be crawled
back over open water. Pausing the lure for a
few seconds can often result in a hit as soon
as the retrieve restarts. A couple of chugs
can pay off in mid retrieve too. Try anything
that you might think will turn a follower into
a taker. I am not pretending that the Dicer
is the crawler to end all crawlers, it is simply
the one that works for me, so I don't use the
others too much. But I am sure that same general
principles will apply to fishing any crawler.
Surface lures require an even bigger dose of
that all important ingredient, confidence, for
success to be assured. Certainly when you are
first getting into topwater fishing. That pike
take topwaters never ceases to amaze me. I have
seen ducklings swimming about unmolested in
the very same swim that pike after pike has
been snaffling surface lures. Why? And how come
you can catch pike on surface baits from waters
where you never see a pike strike or roll? There
must be a very strong trigger from a lot of
these baits to make pike, apparently, change
their behaviour.
Although
I have had quite a bit of success on my Dicer
when crawled and popped I find that stickbaits,
and gliders fished on the surface, get me far
more takes. I admit to spending more time fishing
them though. Even so there is something about
that side-to-side action that triggers pike,
whether the lure is on the top or below the
surface, unfortunately it also makes it difficult
for pike to target the lure at times, and the
faster it is moving or the wider its path the
more this is so. While stickbaits have a strong
visual attraction with their action, they also
make quite a lot of noise if fished energetically,
despite their lack of rattles, wings or propellers.
Most comes from the way they slap the surface
of the water, but some comes, too, from the
hooks rattling on the hangers and banging against
the lure's body. This latter feature is, in
fact, common to just about every lure - especially
jerkbaits, and crankbaits with tight, exaggerated
wiggles. So much so, that I doubt if adding
rattles to such lures will enhance things all
that much. Therefore, all lures rattle to some
extent - even the ones I try to silence!
Anyone
who thinks that jerkbaits look hopeless will
think much the same about stickbaits. The most
famous stickbait is the Heddon Zara Spook, and
this does catch pike - lots of them, but I reckon
it's a little on the small side at 4«
inches. My preference for topwaters is 6 to
7« inches. Something like the Top Doctor
or Giant Jackpot. Not only do stickbaits have
no lip, or cut out face like poppers, propellers
or anything else that might give them a bit
of action, but they look even less like a pike's
food. Let's admit it, pike don't eat sticks.
And that is what stickbaits look like! It is
not surprising that they are sometimes called
do "nuthin' lures". Because that's just what
they do if you simply wind them back in. However,
the way they are weighted, towards the back
end, gives them an amazing action when they
are fished in the right way. All that said,
my biggest lure caught pike to date took a Top
Doctor, four or five twitches after I had zipped
it straight along the surface for almost ten
yards! Who was most surprised, me, or the three
other anglers watching my admittedly light-hearted
cranking, is hard to say. Even when I saw the
fish roll at the bait, I thought it had missed
it. Only realising that I had a fish on when
the rod pulled round. The pike had hit the lure
in such a way that only an inch or so of its
nose was visible. I, and others who witnessed
the incident, have tried this straight-cranking
tactic time and time again - so far without
a single repeat take.
Now, there has been a lot of misrepresentation
about walking-the-dog in the U.K. It has often
been stated that the rod must be held pointing
to the sky, to keep the line off the water.
Or that the rod must be moved from side to side
to get the lure to walk. Neither practice is
necessary. Stickbaits are worked with the rod
in the same way as jerkbaits, with downward
strokes. The key to successful dog-walking is
to get the rhythm right, and all baits have
a different rhythm. The first twitch makes the
lure move to one side, the next twitch moves
it the other way and so on. As with jerkbaiting,
keeping the line tight to the lure is the way
to make the lure keep on working. It is a lot
easier to pick the technique up by watching
someone doing it. It only took me a couple of
casts to get the knack after Dave Scarff showed
me how it was done. Having said this, some people
I have demonstrated the method to have had problems
getting the co-ordination between the right
and left hands going. Try not to think about
what you are doing and it should come naturally.
You should even be able to walk-the-dog with
your eyes closed!
A stickbait caught pike goes berserk as
Martin McDerby gets his pliers ready to
flick the hooks out.
I examined the way I work the rod the other
day, and I hardly move my left hand (the one
holding the reel handle) at all. My left forearm
is tucked in to my body and I sort of wind the
rod and reel (rather than the reel handle) as
I sweep it down and up. Just as with jerkbaits,
once you have mastered the basic retrieve you
can start to vary it. One thing that is worth
noting is that in a bit of a wave you get a
more pronounced action from a stickbait when
casting with the wind, than against it. Working
against the ripple it kicks up even more fuss
and spray, and has a wider, and more violent
walk. A limited number of stickbaits are more
like surface gliding jerkbaits. In fact some
jerkbaits can be fished on the surface by using
a slow steady sweep of the rod rather than a
violent jerk. These lures shoot over the surface
in a wide zigzag, and certainly draw strikes.
The hit ratio is pretty low in my experience
though. Nonetheless a useful tactic when a more
subtle surface tactic is called for. Perhaps
when the water is cool but the pike are still
located in shallow water.
When
the waves get to the stage that white caps are
starting to form stickbaits can be almost impossible
to work, except when cast with the wind. Fishing
them into, or even across, the wind results
in them surfing and sliding across the water,
stalling as they go. Coming in on the waves
the lure glides more and the commotion it creates
is lessened. This is the time to work a propbait
across or through the waves, or a crawler into
the wind, although neither cuts through a gale
on the cast as well as a stickbait. The bank
angler is limited in these conditions, but if
you are afloat then you can position the boat
to make the most of the prevailing wind, and
more often than not present the bait you want
in the way you want it.
It's
a funny thing, but in high summer, a rapidly
worked stickbait can draw more strikes than
a slowly fished one. The trouble is that the
pike miss them more often. If you see a pike
following your bait in, try slowing it down,
this might just give the fish a chance to get
a better shot in. Of course pike are contrary
beasts and are just as likely to turn away when
you slow the lure. So an alternative is to speed
the retrieve up. There's no telling which tactic
will work from day to day. Even stopping the
lure altogether can work at times, the take
will normally come as the lure moves again,
but it might be taken while static (like the
Bang-O mentioned in the minnow chapter). This
seems pretty bizarre behaviour on the pike's
behalf, and something I wouldn't have believed
until I first saw it with my own eyes under
slightly different conditions. When I watched
Dave Scarff's Top Doctor (a lure of his own
design) get taken while stationary it hadn't
been worked at all. Dave had cast his lure towards
the bank and was doing something or other before
starting the retrieve. As I was working my bait
back to the boat I saw Dave's lure disappear
amidst a huge swirl on the surface and his line
start to tighten. I gave him a shout and he
found himself playing a nineteen pounder. It's
a funny old world!
When
a pike engulfs a surface lure, as that one did,
and turns away from you there is little difficulty
in setting the hooks. More often, though, it
is less simple. The usual advice is to wait
either until you see the line begin to tighten,
or until you actually feel the weight of the
fish before striking. This is easier said than
done, and the natural reaction is to make your
strike as soon as you see the pike hit the lure.
What happens next is that the lure flies through
the air having been snatched out of the pike's
mouth. Striking downwards will at least keep
the lure on the water. I have to admit that
I hook more pike on surface lures when I am
not watching the bait, than when I am keeping
it under close observation. There is a lesson
here. What I try to do now is to keep up the
retrieve when I see a pike have a go at my surface
bait and set the hooks when I feel the fish
pulling back. By doing this I keep the lure
working even if the fish misses it altogether,
and if it has hit the bait I have a good chance
of connecting. There are times when this approach
is difficult in the extreme. Like when a pike
takes to the air with your lure between its
teeth! It's happened to me and I don't have
an answer.
If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I would
never have believed it. Dave Scarff's nineteen
pounder that took a static Top Doctor. Note
the tidy boat.
It
has been said many times before, and I make
no apologies for repeating it here, but the
colour of surface lures makes little practical
difference. Light ones work just as well as
dark ones, and in the same light conditions.
I accept that dark lures will most probably
give the crispest silhouette, yet I doubt
that this matters too much. I have caught
on a yellow bait when everyone else was catching
on dark grey versions of the same lure. I
have also caught on a dark lure when a mate
was catching on an orange bellied lure in
the same swim. I returned a couple of days
later with an orange lure and caught again
under similar light conditions. No, I don't
think it matters, they might just as well
all be black! Having said that, bright lures
show up better to the angler in some circumstances,
which is why a lure that is yellow or orange
on its back and black underneath is worth
using. If you think pike might see the lure
from the side, which they may well do in clear,
shallow water, then paint just the top of
the head of a dark bait in a bright, hi-vis
colour. This looks odd at first, quite a few
people have thought that lures finished like
this have been painted upside down - the bright
head looking like a throat flash. Once on
the water the benefits soon become apparent.
In low light all you will see of a stickbait
painted like this is the bright blob moving
from side to side.
Except
in unique situations, topwater lures are at
their most productive from May through to September
when the water is at its warmest, and pike are
actively feeding. Water temperature seems to
be the key factor in determining how well pike
will respond to surface lures. A sudden cool
spell will quickly turn pike off topwaters.
If this happens and the pike are still in the
same areas the way to catch them might be on
a very shallow running crankbait or gliding
jerkbait. Why they will take a subsurface bait
that is within inches of the surface, but ignore
topwaters themselves is one of those mysteries
of piking. But they will do at times. One time
I had been fruitlessly casting topwaters over
a spot that had produced to stickbaits on the
previous session. Switching to a jointed wooden
Grandma, that will only run two foot down on
a fast crank, I had a take first cast followed
by a couple of fish and another hit. Perhaps
the pike had wised up to the action of the stickbaits,
or maybe they were just too noisy for them.
Who knows. Either way a change of tactic paid
off. Don't persist with a certain lure just
because it worked well last time.
Mid-June and the pike are usually cooking
on topwaters. The author with another one
that slammed a Top Doctor and then went airborne
at the side of the boat.
In spring topwater fishing can be a little hit
and miss, as pike location is never easy at
this time of year and water temperatures can
fluctuate widely from day to day. When pike
are massed on the shallows it can be a little
too cold for good surface action, and they are
not always interested in feeding. Once they
have spawned they will slam surface lures if
the water warms up quickly and stays warm. Pike
will be in close proximity to shallow water,
and weed beds that are starting to grow up,
maybe to feed on spawning prey fish. Come summer
and the pike spread out, but are hunting more
so takes can be expected anywhere you would
hope pike to feed. The problem with fishing
weed beds at this time of year is that they
are full of small pike, and although they will
provide plenty of sport to topwaters fished
around the weeds, bigger fish are less likely.
As always they are in the more open water, or
using bigger structure as cover, drop-offs,
ledges and dam walls for example. Top waters
will work well in these situations, but are
at their best in clear water. Around weed where
there is little depth, water clarity is less
critical.
When
summer fades into autumn topwater sport will
slow as the water temperature drops, but will
last longer on some waters than others. If pike
are fry feeding there is often a lot of surface
activity as the small fish are herded to the
surface. Topwaters can work in this situation,
but fry feeding pike can be very preoccupied
and all too frequently resist all our efforts
to catch them. For the dedicated topwater angler
I am sure that pike will come in the depths
of winter but sport will be inconsistent to
say the least. Trying to catch pike on topwaters
in December is fishing to prove a point rather
than for fun. But I, for one, keep trying.
Light
intensity is often mentioned when topwater lures
are discussed, and the received wisdom is that
low light is best for surface fishing. I have
to go along with this to some extent as a lot
of my surface action comes on evening sessions
as the light fades, and when it is so dark I
can't even see the orange flash on the head
of my lure. All I can see are the ripples of
its wake. I know too that quite a few anglers
catch on surface baits through the summer nights,
which rather hints to me that these lures provoke
strikes from non-feeding fish as this is not
a period of day when I have caught many pike
on natural baits. Perhaps it is the commotion
they make on the surface that attracts the pike
at a time when other lures would be less visible.
I have already said that I can only make out
the water disturbance of my lures when fishing
into dusk, so why shouldn't the pike experience
something similar? Having admitted that dusk
is a good time for surface fishing I have to
say that I don't rate dawn quite as highly.
Perhaps it is because the water has cooled a
little overnight making the pike slightly less
active, or perhaps I have just been unlucky.
While
I might not like the first few hours of daylight
for topwater fishing I do like it for other
lures, but come midday with a nice ripple on
the water and the sun beating down from a clear
blue sky I go against the grain and put a stickbait
on. I don't have a ready answer for why pike
should take surface lures in these conditions,
but they do. I can see in my mind's eye many
strikes at topwaters when the sun has been sparkling
on the water. I think the key is the wind, any
experienced pike angler will tell you how a
bit of ripple will keep pike feeding outside
their normal feeding spells. So perhaps it is
no surprise that they will hammer surface lures
too.
Rods
for fishing buzzers, propbaits and crawlers
need not be too specialised, and any outfit
that you like to use for spinnerbaits, will
do for buzzers and a crankbait outfit for the
others. It might be worth stepping up your line
strength for fishing near weed, or swapping
to braid, to deal with the abrasion from weed
stalks. Stickbaits are better fished on a rod
of 5« to 6« feet. This is because
the downward rod action used being so similar
to that used to fish jerkbaits demands the shorter
length. However, such powerful rods as you would
select for jerkbaiting are not needed, and a
lighter but still fairly stiff rod will work
stickbaits very well (the reel I usually opt
for is the Ambassadeur 5501C3). Too stiff a
rod, particularly if used with a braided line,
can make walking stickbaits tricky as it is
all too easy to put too much in to the lure
and overdo its action. A light touch is required
for walking baits with braid. When it comes
to traces for topwaters I don't subscribe to
the view that they need to be as short and light
as possible. This has arisen from the days when
small bass-sized baits were the norm and a heavy
trace might have sunk a lure. I find a fifteen
inch 60lb test trace sufficient for the baits
I use. Only for smaller buzzers do I consider
using a lighter trace, say 30 or 40lb.
Fishing
with small surface baits does have one advantage,
pike find them a little easier to hit. Some
people also feel that large topwaters frighten,
or spook, pike in confined spaces. This is not
something that I worry about. If a pike is spooked
by a bait hitting the water, or the disturbance
it makes, then I think that it has probably
been put on edge by something else already.
Perhaps the angler's approach. If you are worried
by throwing large topwaters, take a little time
to learn how to feather them down on the cast.
The judicious application of your thumb to the
reel can be used to slow a big lure so it lands
like a feather on the water. A heavy feather
admittedly. It takes practice, but practice
that is well worthwhile.
Mouldy's Hawg Wobbler, a jointed crawler with
a tail prop. Although I haven't caught on this
one yet I am told it works well at night.